Ginnel culture

Some tourist cities can keep their dignity and their secrets and not vanish into backdrops for mandatory photocalls – or become imperfect versions of the made in china replicas on sale at the the gew gaw shops.  Having as much history as possible helps in order to disrupt and overwhelm.  Rome’s good at that – Paris not so good. York hovers just about on the […]

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Enlaka

  August   In the village of Enlaka in Hungarian-speaking Romania you feel you should whisper it’s so quiet. Feeling like a benign alien, unable to communicate.Like an advance scout for the tourist massive. Not many English visitors get this far. Most are Hungarians wallowing in the loss of their historic homeland. The deep rustic Hungary they no longer […]

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T Dan Smith

A while back I saw a film by Amber Films called ‘A funny thing happened on the way to Utopia’ about T Dan Smith – the Newcastle City Council leader in the Sixties who was later jailed for corruption. The film itself was in some ways a rather clumsy Eighties Channel Four effort that blended […]

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Transylvania to London by Train

1,800 kilometres of rail travel from Transylvania to London by train. Enter a trance state – addicitve – as Europe roles by. From crumbling platforms and clapped out second hand trains in Romania the trains progressively speed up and the economy solidifies into prosperity. The edge disappears. The golden fields unspool into the mountains and […]

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Inside the Bunker – the jungle

In World War Two the Nazis took to building massively re-inforced ‘Flakturm’ vertical bunkers in the sky as anti-aircraft citadals to protect their premier cities – including Vienna. With walls feet thick it would have taken a series of direct hits to dent them. Wien got four of them. They are imposing brutalist sheer concrete cliffs with balconied […]

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I had a strange dream…

I dreamt I was on a bus as it went down and down a long tunnel deep beneath a hill. Down into a cavernous saltmine. And when I got there, there was hundreds and hundreds of people down there. Playing table tennis and badminton. Eating picnics. There were sandpits, swings and helterskelters…

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